CAPE TOWN.

CAPE TOWN, southerly Africa -- It took Nelson Mandela 18 years to travel cylindrical trip between the coast of this city and Robben Island, just along the shore. On Sunday, Sen Barack Obama, after ferry rides of les than 30 minutes each way, saw for himself where the in the greatest degree famous opponent of apartheid was imprisoned.

Just after 7 a.m., Obama walked from the luxurious oceanfront Table Bay house of entertainment to the launch that would take the Illinois senator and a pres entourage in tow to the former prison, now a museum, historic site and nature sustain this particular morning hosting centurys of African penguins sunning themselves.

The early light lights the flattop Table Mountain, giving the formation that is this city's signature skyline profile a of gold glow. Obama, wearing a wireless microphone pinned to his shirt for single in kind of the two documentary teams taping his African visit, seats into a seat on the ferry to memorize a briefing from Ahmed Kathrada. He was imprisoned with Mandela, later becoming individual of his top advisers after Mandela was picked the first president of the newly democratic toward the south Africa in 1994.

DELEGATION OF individual

Kathrada leads Obama within the compound in a VIP tour. Obama achieves the rare "honor" -- it looks a strange word to use for this -- of getting to actually stand in the spare enclosed space that was Mandela's home. He lingers in extent enough for what becomes the iconic photo missile of the day -- the tall Obama peering revealed what was Mandela's barred window. Obama said, "It abashs you."

This visit to Robben Island, an important symbolic beginning of an Africa trip, is the first leg for CODEL OBAMA, Washington jargon for an official taxpayer-paid congressional delegation. many times these "codels" have more than common lawmaker. In this case, the Obama trip to Africa is a codel of individual He is accompanied by his foreign relations staffer, Mark Lippert; Robert Gibbs, his official guidance and political spokesman, and pair Navy officers who help coordinate the visit.

Also part of CODEL OBAMA is Air Force Maj. Gen Scott Gration, the former director for strategy, policy and plans for the U European Command. EUCOM -- that the same is a military acronym -- overlooks all U.S. military activity in Europe in the greatest degree of Africa and parts of the Mideast.

DEVELOPING THEME

The Obama day that started with the somber tour of the former prison mov forward to a church in Cape Town where, changed to a suit and tie, Obama met with representatives of a variety of faiths in a discussion he would make known me later was one where he listened more than talked. He was saluteed by the Anglican archbishop of Cape Town, Njongongkulu Ndungane, and the Rev Winston Dickerson, the rector of the small ecclesiastical body

Obama received a benediction from the archbishop in an informal "prayer" session. "Bles him as he advances your people," the archbishop said.

Finding the part of faith in the civic marketplace is a developing theme for Obama.

Last month Obama got attention for a language he made chastening Democrats for, in a reason letting themselves get co-opted from the religious right. He uniform opened the door to silent voluntary prayer in teach

The temple meeting was closed to the pres -- we were told the participants wanted it that way. I went along with the other reporters to take a tram ride up Table Mountain in an expedition organized by dint of Gibbs.

Obama's day closeed at a private dinner where the senator talked with AIDS activists at the dwelling of U.S. Consul General Helen LaLime, who is employmented in Cape Town.

'WORTHY OF A LUNATIC FRINGE'

In a political division fighting the AIDS epidemic -- as is frequently of Africa - - toward the south African President Thabo Mbeki and Health Minister Dr Manto Tshabalala-Msimang have become the laughingstock of the world when it take rises to their views of the disease.

The assurance page of the Sunday Times, which circulates in southward Africa, noted that at the just-concluded AIDS talk in Toronto, the U.N. special minister to Africa said the government's theories about the origin and treatment of AIDS were "worthy of a lunatic fringe." The toward the south African government came to Toronto to dignify AIDS healing with beet lower part garlic, lemons and African potato.

NOT RELUCTANT TO CRITICIZE

if it be not that the 15 or so AIDS activists -- medical researchers, treatment providers and nation who work on pediatric, feminist and religious AIDS concocts -- who dined with Obama already knew their regulation was on the fringe when it draw nears to the treatment of AIDS with present medicine.

I chatted with Obama when he responded to the hotel. The diners were "deeply disturbed" about their government's views.

"These are remarkably capable people on the ground" Obama told me He does not mind coming to a armed force country and criticizing the regulation when it comes to AIDS.

Said Obama, diplomacy to him "does not mean I don't describe the truth as I descry it."

More onward AIDS in Africa with CODEL OBAMA today.

e-mail: lsweet@suntimes.com

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